SundayOne of the best things about camping is of course the shower when you get home. So I wasn't home, but the shower at Robert's in Indianapolis was definitely great. He lives in a downtown apartment with a closed-off entresol, so to be fair, it deed feel familiar. Except he has two showers. Because this is, after all, America.
After we all (Katie, Matias, Jen, Sarah, Robert and I) took turns in the showers, it was time to say goodbye to the first three who were heading back to San Diego and Virginia. Sarah was spending another day in Indy. We kind of collapsed on the couch and watched some football.

My head crashed before my body even succumbed to sleep. I was officially gone. The arthritis in my joints was flaring, my thoughts were hazy and lifting my left pinky felt like an emotional and physical trial in the range of running a marathon. Robert and Sarah told me they wanted to go see Toy Story 3 that afternoon and I completely misread that and thought I wasn't invited (seriously Esther, are you five?). I pretty much realized then that I wasn't going anywhere anymore without some sleep first. So after they left, I crashed on the couch. When they got back to pick me up for dinner, I couldn't do that either. I just slept some more.
What did you do on your first day in Indy? I slept through it.
But apparently, I needed it like you wouldn't believe.
MondayNeedless to say, I woke up at the crack of dawn. So I went outside and fetched myself some Starbucks and watched the city come to life (starting with a very obese homeless person waking up on a bench just outside Robert's apartment building. Homeless and obese. How? I ask thee).
Indianapolis has a large obelisk-esque column in the center and this is where 'my' Starbucks was located.

I think this monument was some sort of military memorial because it had all these battles mentioned on it with the deaths on both sides and the outcome. It was very intricate and realistic in it's design - not my favorite style but whatever.

The whole thing fascinated me, because it seemed so grotesque and out of place in a city that otherwise has a certain modesty about it. I also wondered about the mention on one of the four sides, of the defeat of what I assume were the original habitants of the region; Indians. You'd think they'd want to just conveniently not mention anything about that, like the Dutch ignoring how we ever came to rule Indonesia (because we magically were just
there one day. Right.). I concluded I found it the presentation not very tasteful, but at least historically aware.
After Sarah and Robert woke up, Robert bought us breakfast at a pretty cool place with great food and really bad coffee. After that, the three of us went to a brand new exhibition in a park next to the Museum of Art. It was called 100 Acres and contained various objects which were obviously designed to invite the visitors to interact and play with the art instead of just looking at it. One of my favorites was an iglo in the middle of the lake, which housed two artists. You could send messages to the them by sticking a note in a floatable mini iglo and set it in the water. All the notes were then posted on a website.

Mine read: home is not where my heart
is, but where my soul
walks. Needless to say, I get extremely cheesy when I'm tired and hot. Because it was hot, so hot. Again, with the hotness! I loved the setup of the whole exhibition but was also pretty ready to get back to the lavish air conditioning of Robert's car.





Sarah had to leave in the afternoon to get back on time in Nashville. Boo. Sarah needs to live next door. But I think we basically all agreed them coming over to Europe if Dave does a solo tour next year. Get on it, Dave.
(This was before I decided to come out to NYC in the fall and wanting to come out to Chicago end of summer - Chicago I won't be able to do, but I'll talk about that later. The reason is depressing and I'm not in the mood for that right now).
Back in the apartment, Robert and I discussed where to eat. He asked me if I was familiar with the term 'food coma'. Of course I was, because this is what you guys always talk about come Thanksgiving. We were still on the 'Esther's American Experience' tip, so this was our mission. Put Esther in a food coma. We went to a restaurant called St. Elmo.

Beware, because I'm going to talk about this dinner in length.
Now, an observation before I start talking food. Americans who have travelled to Europe know this: everything is the same, yet completely alienating. I entered the restaurant, and notice the hand carved wood work over the bar, the division into bar area and 'nicer' restaurant area, the waiters dressed in tuxedos, the chandelier hanging from the ceiling. We are wearing kakis and shirts, and for a minute I'm worried I'm underdressed. And then I notice the baseball caps. So you're in a restaurant that isn't posh at all, but borderline 'someplace nice' (think Friends) all the same - and half the clientele is wearing a baseball cap. My mom would have a fit.
Anyway. I'm not my mom and I concentrate on my table manners (they differ in America - for example, one of your hands, the one not holding a utensil - apparently it's gauche to hold two at a time, stays under the table) and try not to look too stuck up European.
Our waiter is kissing my ass (keeps calling me young lady, which makes me feel 100 years old) and explains the specialty of the house, a shrimp cocktail. It's nothing like what I know and this is why I choose it as a starter. No Dutch grey shrimp, obviously, but bigger, pink ones. No orange cocktail sauce, but what you could almost call a vinaigrette made of young, fresh (because delivered every morning, right off the field) radish (Dutch: radijs). Robert advises me to take off as much of the sauce as I can before I take a bite. I follow it. And put a shrimp in my mouth.
It's delicious. I chew. Very delicious. I swallow. It's really delicious. And then my mouth is on f-ing fire. My sinuses opened wide. It's still delicious and I'll never want a Dutch shrimp cocktail again, it's just hot-t-t-t-t. Not hot enough to leave you with your head in your water glass. But you can bet I kept taking off as much sauce as I could with each bite.
Robert is studying the wine list and to my embarrassment, there's a couple on there made of a grape I'd never heard of: Malbec. Apparently, they'd tried to grow it in France in the past but it needs a far better climate. It does best in Argentina. So he orders an Argentinian Malbec, unfortunately neither of us can remember the name of the house. And it really was one of the better wines I've drunk. Full, but not too much tannine (no idea what the English word is).
Next up was the smallest beef I could find on the menu (10 oz - still thick as a horse) and jacked potato. The potato was the size of my car. It tasted great, but the goal was getting really full, not induce projectile vomiting, so I didn't finish it.
Desert was carrot cake for me and cheese cake for Robert. Again, I'm forever spoiled and will weep when I eat some now-second-class carrot cake over here. So good. So Effing Good. To complete the American Experience, I took home half in a box (gotta do the Doggy Bag, right?). I ate it for breakfast the next morning. Bliss.
Robert suggested I take a smoke outside while he took care of the bill - did I mention Robert is the most generous host ever? He won't take no for an answer either. In any case, as soon as I was out of the air conditioned restaurant and had my smoke in the stuffy night air, I suddenly felt it. The wine (which we had polished off, nicely followed by liqueur with coffee), the food, the great conversation - I was definitely not on solid ground. Didn't feel that way, at least.
So we walked off dinner with a stroll along a canal which I cannot remember the name of. We kept the walk medium length, the bloody arthritis was muted by the wine but I could tell I shouldn't overdo it if I wanted to go somewhere the next day. It really was a great night and if you're ever in Indy - try the St. Elmo shrimp cocktail. Seriously.
Back home we watched some Joanna Newsom (more about her later) on Youtube before calling it a night.
TuesdayWoke up early of course, because my body doesn't know how to catch eight hours of sleep anymore and headed out for coffee. As I walk out, the doorman, whom I was on a first name basis on (I walked by him about 5 times a day for my smoke breaks), gave me his home made cookies. He baked them himself. Peanut butter chocolate chip I think. I didn't like it, but that's not the point. He gave me cookies. Cute.
As I sit on a bench on the sidewalk, a police officer approaches me. I'm a bit weary of U.S. police & custom officers (most of you know why by now). But this officer tells me he likes my shirt, where did I get it, where am I from, am I handling the heat well, have a great day and smiley smile goes on his way.
After collecting my Starbucks, I pass Robert in the hall who's on his way to work with his purple sneakers on (which I sent him - see how thoughtful this guy is?). I put the only stroopwafel I have left in a ziplock bag and bring it down to André, the doorman. His eyes get so big and his smile so wide, he really is adorable.
Today's mission is getting a little feel of the city and shop before Robert comes pick me up and drive me to the airport.
After walking around without a specific destination but with aim just the same, I hit the nearest mall. I bought A&F shirts in Nashville for a friend and now have to buy some more shirts for our mutual male friend - so he doesn't feel left out. I give myself a peptalk and walk in the dreadful, cheaply perfumed, deafening store. I know my friend's size, but the shirts look a little on the small side. While I'm examining them, I hear a voice ask "Can I help you?". I turn around and it's Edward. I'm staring in the eyes of a bad teen novel. Early twenties, fairly tall (almost my height), green eyes, 'chiseled jaw' and 'carefully disarrayed hair'. My inner girl swoons. My current self shouts "You're 37! Get a grip!", at me.
I explain that I'm worried the shirts are on the small side. He says they're a 'muscle fit'. I hate A&f a little bit more. So if you're not toned the F out, you can't wear them? Whatever. Sales model asks me what built my friend is. "Uh - kinda like you", I say. And Edward takes off his shirt and puts on the shirt I'm holding. We can now add 'perfect planes of his chest' to the fuckery. After André and his cookies and the cop and his interest in my shirt, it really is the epitome of friendliness of the American Heartland. Shirt is a perfect fit (as if) and I make the purchase. I accidently stumble into the dressing rooms in my endeavour to find the exit and sales god winks at me. Call me cougar. Or pathetic. Whatever.
We proceed to Banana Republic where I try on a mountain of clothes, all the while the sales lady keeps telling me that although it all fits, the clothes are just a little short on me. It's sweet. Because we all know what she carefully doesn't say: You Are Too Tall for Banana Republic, You Freak.
It's time to go back to Robert's and pack. And get another Starbucks. And say goodbye to André. And snap some more pictures. And dread going home. And I want to be there right now so I can kiss the Best Kid Ever.

On the way to the airport:
Me: "I looked up the tourdates for Jenna Jameson, but she played Amsterdam the end of May so I missed her. Sucks."
Robert: (blinks) "Who?"
Me: "Jenna Jameson! The harpist you were raving about last night."
Robert: "Uh..."
Me: "What?"
Robert: "You mean Joanna Newsom." (smirks)
Me: "Who's Jenna Jameson then?" (and I just know the answer just by looking at him)
Robert: (grins) "A pretty famous porn star. What the hell were you doing this morning, Esther?"
I want to die. Instead I snort. And mumble something about a probable mention on Friends. I can see Robert thinking "Sure, Es. Whatever you say". Thank god we're both laughing out loud now.
I do solemnly swear I have not ever seen a Jenna Jameson film. And yes, I would admit it if I had, because I'm Dutch. There.
It's time to say goodbye and get on the plane. Transfer at O'Hare, once again. And once again, I secretely think of running out and just stay. Get a feel of the Windy City. Good thing I've got the Best Kid Ever to get back to, or I might just do it. Instead, I have a reasonably comfortable flight back to NL. Amsterdam never seemed more glum.
Thus ends the tale of my latest visit Home. I'll be back. And am making arrangements for a... longer stay, if everything goes to shit back here. More on that later. Like I said, not in the mood right now.
95% of people I've hung out with on this trip don't have access to this blog, but I'm leaving a message in cyber space just the same: THANK YOU!!! It was great. Sigh.